Don McCunn's Blog

Custom Bra Sizing

April 3, 2010 on 7:03 pm | In Custom-Fit Bra Making, Fitting Issues, Pattern Design Guides | No Comments

I was working with a new model, Bonnie, to make a custom-fit bra mold the other day. To see this process, view my Overview. Bonnie said she never wears an underwire bra. The pain threshold becomes unbearable after two hours max. She was told she should wear a “B” cup. That one had me rolling on the floor laughing.

Out of curiosity I compared her measurements to the charts in Beverly Johnson’s “The Bra-makers Manual.” For those of you who don’t know this is one of the major reference books for custom bra makers.

The chart said she should be wearing a 32D bra. She does have a small rib cage and a good size bust. I never go by cup size as I find it rather meaningless for custom-fit bras. So okay I’ll believe Beverly on that one. I warned my model Bonnie that not all bra manufacturers would necessarily use that standard.

We had found Bonnie’s underwire size using the approach I recommend in my eBook, How to Make Custom-Fit Bras, and show in the video on my Bra-Making Resource website. You need to scroll down to the bottom of the page to see it.

When I compared the copper wire I shaped on Bonnie to my chart I discovered she needs a 42 underwire. I pulled out my underwire stash for the 42 size and tried one on her. It was a perfect fit if a little long.

So then I took a look at what Beverly’s book said she should be wearing based on the measurements. According to Beverly the correct underwire size for a 32D bra is a 36. This is 4 sizes smaller than the one that actually fits Bonnie.

So now ask me why I have such an inherent distrust of standardized measurements and mass produced bras?

I firmly believe the only way you are going to truly have a bra that fits is to rely on getting the shape from the actual body.

About Underwire Sizing:
The standard way most suppliers refer to underwire size is by the underwire size for a “B” cup. I developed my chart for underwires by ordering underwires from 7 different suppliers for sizes from 30 to 60 including all the different lengths from demi to extra long. I recorded the results including the necessary order number for each supplier. This is the free Bra Underwire Chart.