Don McCunn's Blog

Bust Sling Nursing Bra

The basic concept of the Bust Sling Bra is to support the breast from above instead of from the side (which is the cantilever structure of a conventional bra). For more on the comparison of these two structures see my post Introducing the Bust Sling Bra. It was my hope in developing this design that it would provide a more natural and comfortable support for the breast.

From my research I learned that one of the most sensitive times for a woman’s breasts is when she becomes pregnant and then starts nursing. It was my hope that the Bust Sling could be used as a nursing bra such as the one you can see in the photo below.

While the example above supports the bust sling with a strap around the neck, other variations are possible as you can see in the description of my online class for Bust Sling Bras.

It is with great pleasure that I have recently heard from Kenna who made one of these custom-fit nursing bras for herself and has reported the results of using it. With her permission I have included her comments below. To give you an idea of the support she requires she wears a “DDD” cup in a conventional bra. She is not the model you see in the photo above.

Bust Sling vs. Conventional Bra

As for nursing, the bra works very well. I have quite a bit of experience with
conventional nursing bras. Usually the part of the bra that falls away for
nursing is the part of the bra that supports the breast. Therefore, when you
nurse, the bra drops the breast. I love the fact that the bust sling does not
do that. The breast is supported through the nursing, and that feels better to
me. I do have to hold my baby a little further out from my body due to the
projection, but that has not been a problem.

Fungal Growth

It’s not unusual for women with ample busts to struggle with fungal growth on the skin underneath the breast. This is a real problem. Your design prevents skin-on-skin contact, which prevents sweating, which prevents that fungal growth. A+ for the help in that department.

Mastitis

The other day I started experiencing pain from a clogged milk duct. Guess what! The fact that the Bust Sling Bra has no underwire and is very gentle on the breast tissue made it the perfect bra to wear while trying to prevent the pain from turning into full-blown mastitis. Another A+.

Cost and Durability
Kenna is new to sewing. She found this an easy bra to create.

It’s nice to know that even a beginner’s experiences can be useful. I plan to recommend this bra design, and your class, to anyone who asks me about nursing bras. I find your design very refreshing. Bras have been a constant source of angst for me for many many years.

Another little tidbit about your approach that I love is the cost factor. When I buy conventional bras, they easily cost me $60.00 per bra, if not more. Then they last for no more than a year, and often times less than that. If I launder them adequately to prevent fungal growth, they will last no more than 3 months. With your approach, I can make a bra out of material that can be laundered, and I can do it very economically.

All these things have me very excited! I get good fit, adequate support, ease of care, better skin health, and a great nursing bra for a very reasonable price.

Pants Fitting Issues

Getting pants to fit can be a challenge. My mantra is nature never makes the same shape twice. Working with people in my online How to Make a Pants Sloper class I have had the opportunity to hone and fine tune some of the ideas in my book How to Make Sewing Patterns. The information below is intended to supplement the material in my book.

Crotch Curve
One issue that arises is that fabric in a slacks cut pants can buckle under the buttocks as I show in my book.

This is caused either by posture or the soft tissue of the buttocks going south. What we discovered by doing some field testing in my class is that this fitting issue is actually reflected in measurements.

When I was researching pants patterns the crotch curve never dropped lower than the top of the inseam. This means that when you add the Crotch Depth and Inseam measurements they will equal the Waist to Floor measurement.

But in some bodies the buttocks can be lower than the ideal location for the top of the inseam. In this case the Inseam measurement indicates the length of the inseam and the Crotch Depth indicates how much the back crotch curve needs to be lowered for an appropriate fit. I have written and illustrated this relationship in a little more detail in a Crotch Curve PDF file you are welcome to download.

Adjusting for Tummies
Another fitting issue that we have addressed in my class is how to optimize the fit of pants for women with tummies. I am grateful for the assistance that Barbara Cleary provided in field testing a new measurement and giving me permission to use pictures of her journey addressing this issue.

Once again in my book I indicated how to adjust for tummies on page 40. The concept is to extend the front crotch curve so the pants don’t pull in tightly directly under the tummy as you can see in the “before” photo on the left. What Barbara and I worked out is how to use a Tummy Width measurement to establish how much the front crotch curve needs to be extended so the pants will not pull in here, the photo on the right. Here is a link to the Optimizing for Tummies PDF file you can download.

Caveat: beware of relying too much on the measurements. The only way to really evaluate pattern shapes is in a fitting. Use these measurement ideas only as an initial guide.

Sway Back Posture

One of the fitting issues that has come up in my online class How to Make a Lower Torso Sloper is the sway back posture which some refer to as a “tilted waist.” If a body has this posture, it can affect the fit of any pair of pants or skirt you buy or make. These garments “hang” when the hips are larger than the waist. If the waist is larger than the hips, then the skirt or pants have nothing to hold them up–except suspenders.

The tummy affects the fit of the front and can be larger than the hips. It is the shaping of the back pattern from side seam to center back that the sway back fit addresses. It is a common posture configuration for many women. If the fit of the back and sides is correct for a particular body, this portion of the garment may also hold up the front even if there is a tummy. Only creating an accurate fit for a specific body will you know whether this will work.

If you look at the picture below you will see how this person’s sway back is flat from the natural waist to about 2″ down toward the hips. If the top of the waistband is low enough, the sway back will not affect the fit. But if the waistband is within the range of this flat area of the back and the dart is not shaped accordingly, the garment will tend to slide down and hang unevenly. This shaping is also important for the Contoured Waistband which I describe in another blog topic.

It is my experience that the best way to create a sloper that fits accurately is to align the grain of the fabric to the contours of the body keeping the horizontal grain parallel to the floor and the vertical grain at right angles to the floor. For a sway back posture this means that the top of the hip dart will be parallel or almost parallel where the back is flat, then angle out to the fullest part of the hip at the bottom of the sway back contour.

This posture will also affect the fit of any dress, coat, or jacket that is shaped to fit the back.

Adjusting the Sleevecap and Armscye

My current thinking about sleeve caps is a little different from what I have in my book How to Make Sewing Patterns. I have used the approach I described in my book for a long time. But since I have been teaching my Online Classes, I have had some additional thoughts and observations which I want to share.

Background First:
The reason for ease in sleeve caps is a little different than the reason for ease in other parts of the slopers. A minimum fitting ease is added so you can move comfortably in a garment. If your design calls for additional fullness beyond the basic comfort factor, this is design ease.

The ease in the sleeve cap is to adjust the fabric of the sleeve so it can be shaped over the shoulder. This ease, unlike other ease factors, can be referred to as “sewing ease.” The sleevecap needs to be worked into the armscye (aka armhole) during the sewing process. I show why this is required in more detail in my blog entry “Sleeve Caps – The Reason for Ease.”

When I was researching my book I found the sewing ease that seems to be not only a “standard” but something that actually works on most bodies is to add 3/8″ of ease to both the front and back of the sleeve cap making the total sleevecap 3/4″ larger than the armscye, see page 74 of my book.

Always Fit the Bodice First:
Before you start to develop a sleeve sloper you need to have the fit of the armscye worked out for the upper torso (aka Bodice).

Adjusting Side Seam and Underarm Ease:
Once you have drafted the sleeve as I show in my book you need to verify that the length of the sleeve cap has the necessary sewing ease as described above. It has been my experience that for a lot of bodies, the sleeve cap drafts very close to the appropriate length. I show how to make any necessary adjustments on page 73.

Caveat: After listening to the issues of the people in my online classes it has occurred to me that the “standards” of ease for the bodice and sleeve may not be appropriate for the proportions of some bodies. It may be possible that some people have a smaller or larger arm than is accommodated by standard ease measurements. If this is the case, ignore the “standards” of 4″ of ease for the bodice and 3″ for the sleeve. Adjust your sleeve cap or bodice to which ever is the largest length required, see Figure 150 on page 73.

Use the following steps to create a fitting shell to determine if you have the correct amount of ease for the comfort and fit you want.

Bra Issues

For the last four years I have run the Yahoo group How to Make Custom-Fit Bras. During this time I have listened to the issues women have with the design of conventional bras. The result is the concept for a different type of bra based on a suspension structure rather than the cantilever structure of conventional bras. I call this alternate type of bra a Bust Sling Bra. I was pleased by the response of one of my early testers, Becky Hess. One of her first experiments was to wear it for 9 holes of golf. An exercise that requires a lot of upper body movement.

I made one of the test bra slings. I am happy to report that it is the most
comfortable bra I wear. I wear it every chance I get. My girls are on the large
side and the bra sling gives me great support, and lift.

There are a variety of issues I have responded to with the design of this bra as I describe in my online class How to Make Bust Sling Bras and Variations.

Underwires
Bra underwires are problematic for women for several reasons.

• Underwires are not the right length poking the underarm area
• The left and right breasts can be different sizes
• Some women need an underwire that is flat on the bottom. No commercial underwire is shaped like this.
• Underwires ultimately poke through the channeling with time.

The conventional bra uses an underwire to hold the bra cup close to the body, particularly at the breast bone in front. The Bust Sling Bra eliminates the need for an underwire by using a suspension structure that follows the natural contours of the body.

Separation between Breasts
Some women have no separation between the breasts at the full bust level. This means that the underwires of a conventional bra can not go high enough to provide adequate control of the bra. The Bust Sling bra only requires the thickness of the fabric to fit between the breasts to provide appropriate support. I trust that this fabric riding between the breast will improve comfort in warm climates where perspiration and other issues can be a factor.

Front Opening
The largest clasp for a front closure for a conventional bra is 1-3/8″. This is not tall enough to reach the full bust level which is important to prevent East/West drift. The Bust Sling Bra removes the tension around the rib cage allowing for a variety of different kinds of front closure devices including separating zippers. This should be of special benefit for women with mobility issues who find it difficult to use a back closure for a bra.

Bra Strap Width
The largest readily available width for bra straps for conventional bras is 3/4″. Conventional wisdom is that these straps should not support more than 10% of the weight of the breast. When the bra strap is narrow it can pinch nerves and result in other serious health issues. After consulting with a friend who is a doctor, he said that the issue is not placing weight on the shoulders but the width of the strap. He pointed out that back packs use a wide strap.

The width of the strap for Bust Sling Bras can be up to the full width of the shoulder–even wider than that found on back packs. For women whose breasts are smaller or self supporting, the straps on a Bust Sling can be as small as 1/8″.

Support from the Back
Given that the Bust Sling relies on a suspension style, the support from the back up to the shoulders is an important issue. But like the width of the strap this will vary with the needs of the individual. For this reason I show variations for the back that include a halter style around the neck, an “X” back, a racer back, and a hybrid that uses the same kind of band around the rib cage as found in a conventional bra.

East/West Drift
An important issue women have with bras is the East/West drift. Large breasts can tend to spread to the sides. The Bust Sling uses two means for controlling East/West drift. First the position of the Bust Slings can be adjusted at the rib cage. But for many women additional support can be added to the full bust level using a bridge between the two Bust Slings. As mentioned in the topic of the front opening, this bridge can incorporate a zipper. If desired the bridge can even be carried above the full bust level.

Rib Cage Elastic
Some women have trouble with conventional bras because the elastic band under the bust rolls up and becomes uncomfortable. For the Bust Sling Bra you can use any type of elastic of any width including the wide non-roll elastic used in waistbands. I have even made a dress for my model that uses no elastic at all around the rib cage. Depending on the body, this could be an important consideration for women who have scar tissue from surgery.

Life Expectancy of the Bra
I have heard comments from women who say a bra will only last them three or four months before it looses it’s tension and is unusable. The structure of the Bust Sling is such that it does not depend on tension around the rib cage. As mentioned above it may even be possible to make a Bust Sling garment with no elastic. This means a Bust Sling Bra should have the same life expectancy as any other garment that is laundered regularly.

Support for Fluff
I have heard for women refer to their soft tissue around the rib cage as “fluff.” This is a fun term but obviously can be uncomfortable when it is pinched by a tight band around the rib cage. With the Bust Sling Bra the support comes over the shoulders minimizing the tension around the rib cage. In addition by offering different styles for the back such as the racer back and the hybrid, there is an inherent ability to support this fluff in a comfortable way.

Profile Enhancement
The Bust Sling can include a pocket for either one side or both to include a bra cup for profile enhancement or a prosthetic device.

Styling Concerns
One issue that seems to come up pretty frequently is that conventional bras designed for large breasts are ugly and institutional looking. Fortunately I don’t consider that an issue for the Bust Sling Bra because it can be used with any type of fabric and any type of elastic. The lines can be changed to create different designs as long as the underlying structure is maintained. Furthermore the structure of the Bust Sling can be used to create Empire style tops, dresses, and gowns that do not require an additional undergarment.

Introducting the Bust Sling Bra

I have developed a new design process for my online patternmaking class How to Make Bust Sling Bras & Variations.

The premise of this design is that the conventional bra has been designed for the young woman in her reproductive years. When women enter their post reproductive years, both the body and the personality can change dramatically. But the basic structure of the conventional bra remains the same.

The conventional bra is based on a cantilever concept where the weight of the breast is supported by the band around the rib cage. My Bust Sling Bra changes the support structure to a suspension style that follows the natural contours of the body.

Because the structure of this bra provides support by following the natural contours of the body it can be used to create garments with built in support that require no additional undergarment. This approach also eliminates the need for underwires. It is an open design concept that can be used to create garments for women of all ages.

The design is motivated by the comments I have been listening to for the last four years through my Yahoo group Custom Bras. I trust with this one design concept I have been able to address almost all the issues women are faced with in a conventional bra.

Online Classes – Why Take One?

When I first started thinking of teaching pattern design online I seriously considered the question “Why should anyone take a class I offer online?” My description that follows is going to be a little long winded. Fortunately I have a student in my last class that put it very succinctly. I quote her below with her permission.

“I am really enjoying your class. When I was looking at it originally, I wasn’t sure it would be profitable for me since I already had your book. But, with the videos and the critiquing I’m finding it incredibly helpful.”

Karen, Beijing, China (member of How to Make and Upper Torso (aka Bodice) Sloper)

Researching Other Online Classes

I took several online classes to see how others were doing it. The ones I took involved receiving printed material in PDF format, forums, and chats where I could discuss with the instructor the issues that came up in the class.

I was already doing most of this through my book How to Make Sewing Patterns, my eBook How to Make Custom-Fit Bras, and my Yahoo Group forums which are free to anyone interested (see the Blogroll sidebar). The difference between these online classes and my groups and books is that the online classes were available for a limited time period. What I was doing was available 365 days a year. I wanted to be able to offer something of value that went beyond what I was already doing.

Videos for Class Demonstrations and Lectures

I remembered back in the 70s when I first started using my book to teach Pattern Design through the San Francisco Community College Adult Education division. It was a real eye opener to see that when I did a classroom demonstration people who had read my book all of a sudden started to get it. I could see the light bulbs going off in their eyes.

At the time I wanted to create video presentations that would not be limited by the geographic location of San Francisco. But that would have involved creating 8mm movies and people would have needed film projectors and projection screens. I did not think this was a practical alternative.

With the advent of the internet I realized I could now provide the visual demonstrations I had been doing in class through streaming videos like those on YouTube. I started my classes with that in mind. I create these videos so people can download them to their own computer for a permanent resource. For people in my classes on slow internet connections, I provide the videos on a CD. I make the videos not more than 5 to 6 minutes long so they download quickly. This also makes it easy to zero in on a particular topic like chapters in a book.

Fitting Critiques

Then as I was teaching the basic fitted sloper classes I realized I could critique people’s fitting issues through photos they submitted to me through the class (see below for an example). These critiques allow me to give a very careful evaluation of the fitting issues which I put into PDF format. This allows the individual to have a permanent reference they can access any time. It also allows everyone in the class to see the issues other people need to address for their particular body shape.

Doors are Open 365 Days a Year

It also occurred to me that while in a bricks-and-mortar school doors need to physically open and close, there is no such restriction over the internet. So I have adopted the policy that once you take a class, you can have access to the class for as long as you need. When I reopen a class for another scheduled session, I will reinstate you in the class roster at no additional charge.

Ongoing Course Development

It is this combination of factors and the enthusiasm of my online students that keeps me committed to continue my online patternmaking classes. I am thrilled to be able to develop additional online classes that delve into aspects of pattern design that I have been unable to approach when teaching in a bricks-and-mortar environment.

Additional Blog Entries

• Registering, Enrolling, Time Commitment, & Beginning Sewers
• Scheduled Classes, Independent Studies, Repeating a Class & The Sandbox Classroom
• My Mantra: “Nature Never Repeats the Same Shape Twice”
• An Example of a Class Dialog with a Student
• A Fitting Challenge: The Asymmetrical Body & A Sample Fitting Critique (a PDF File)
• All Online Class Blog Entries (multiple pages)

Marking for DIY Fittings

Back in the 1970s I wrote in my book How to Make Sewing Patterns about how you could fit yourself using typewriter ribbon to mark those hard to reach places. Who would know back then that typewriter ribbon would become so hard to obtain.

Fortunately I have found a product that works as a wonderful substitute for typewriter ribbon. It is called Chaco Liner from Clover Products. This product comes in a dispenser that allows you to draw lines on fabric using a device with a spoked wheel. The video below shows how to use the Chaco Liner Refill to mark the hard to reach locations such as the top of back darts and seams like the neck curve.

My Online Classes

I have been getting emails asking about how my online Patternmaking classes work. So I thought I’d post the information here and direct people to this information.

Registering for the School:
To take a class you first need to register at the school. This is a one time process that simply confirms your email address. You can do this at the Sign Up page.

Enrolling in a Class
Once you have registered with the school, you can then enroll in a class. You enroll in a class by paying the enrollment fee through PayPal. You do not need to have a PayPal account. You can use a credit card to pay the fee. People who do not want to do that should contact me at Don@deofsf.com for alternate means of paying for the class.

Time Commitment
One of the biggest questions people have is about the time commitment for the classes. People want to know how they can work the class into their schedule. My classes are a combination of running on a schedule and being self paced.

Once you have enrolled and before I start a class when you go to the classroom you will see a “Welcome” section. Then as per the schedule I open up the class one week at a time. Each week contains videos and other information. There is a forum where people enrolled in the class can ask questions about the material. Everyone has a chance to see these questions.

There is a once weekly interactive one hour chat that is at a specific time. As people take my classes from all around the world, not everybody participates in the chats. I always post a transcript afterward. This is the only time sensitive part of the class.

Once a week is opened, I leave the information available until the class starts again which is usually a year later. You can visit the classroom at any time 24 hours a day 7 days a week. You can download the videos to your computer as a permanent reference. So because I never close the doors, if your schedule does not permit you to keep up with each week, you can always come to the material when you are ready for it. For information about repeating a class at no charge, see my Class Scheduling post.

For the sloper classes I do fitting critiques from pictures people in the class submit. To my mind the videos which show the procedures in real time and the fitting critiques are the most valuable aspect of these classes. Basically it is like having a private one-on-one class to help you create the various patterns and garments. And you can watch the videos as often as you want. I am happy to help you almost 365 days a year–even I need an occasional day off.

My Online Classes Compared to Bricks-and-Mortar Classes
I have a classroom where I compare my approach to online classes to bricks-and-mortar classes. It is The Sandbox classroom. You do not need to be registered with the school to go to this free classroom. You can use the “Log in as a guest” feature.

Beginning Sewers:
I have another free classroom for people who are beginning sewers. This classroom has examples of the videos I use and provides basic techniques that you will need to assemble garments. You are welcome to use this free Sewing Room classroom with the “Log in as a guest” feature.

If you have additional questions, do not hesitate to contact me at Don@dceofsf.com.

Online Patternmaking Class Scheduling

My Online Patternmaking Classes are scheduled to begin at different times throughout the year. So far I have only offered any given course once a year. I am very interested in expanding the courses I offer to explore design variations for different types of garments. As I add more courses it may take more than a year before I repeat a given course. I am committed to offering the basic sloper classes (Bras, Upper Torso, Sleeves, Lower Torso, & Pants) at least once a year.

I am flexible about accommodating people who do not want to wait for a class to “officially” begin. Here is the difference between taking one of my classes when it is scheduled and taking it as an “Independent Studies class” at any time that is suitable for you.

Scheduled Class Time:
When a class is scheduled for a given time I usually open it for enrollment two weeks before it starts. When I open it for enrollment I announce it to my Yahoo groups and notify my Email List. Once a class is open for enrollment and before class starts enrolled students will see a “Welcome to…” section.

Each of my classes is divided into a series of weeks. Once the scheduled time occurs, I open the appropriate week. These weeks include streaming videos as my lecture/demonstrations. There may also be some additional web pages or PDF files depending on the content of the class.

Each week there is a one hour interactive chat at a specific time that enrolled students are welcome to participate in. I post transcripts of these chats immediately afterward for everyone in the class. There is also a forum where people can ask questions and share their ongoing patternmaking experience. Some enjoy hearing how others in the class are progressing. Participating in the chats and the forum are voluntary.

Independent Studies Class Times:
If you wish to take one of my classes that is currently not scheduled, contact me at Don@deofsf.com and tell me the class you are interested in taking. I will open it for enrollment long enough for you to join the class.

If the class is currently running, you will see the material for the class according to the scheduled time. You can participate in whatever chats remain.

If it is outside of the class’s normal scheduled time, you will see all the material for all the weeks of the class. You will also be able to read the messages to the forum and the transcripts of the chats. You can post any questions or comments you have in the forum.

Open Time Management
It is up to you to schedule when you do the work for my online classes. There are no deadlines for submitting completed projects and no grades for completing the work for the class. I will not be breathing down your neck asking when you are going to finish a task. There are no doors that open or close.

I am available to help you whenever and however you need it 365 days a year (almost–I do take an occasional day off). Once you are in one of my classes I place no time limit for how long I will be available to help you. I want to see you successfully accomplish the work you set out to do no matter how long that may take to achieve.

Repeating a Class
My current policy is not to charge when you want to repeat a class you have already taken. The school software automatically bumps people who do not use a given class for half a year. But if that happens and you want to get back in, just contact me and I will reinstate you in the class roster.

More Information
I have an open classroom called The Sandbox where I compare my online classes to in person, bricks-and-mortar classrooms. In addition to this comparison you can see examples of the various aspects of how my online classes work. If you are not registered for my school, click the “Login as a guest” button.

If you would like to participate in discussions about my online classes, I do maintain a Yahoo Group, Patternmaking Classes, specifically for this purpose.